Beauty by a round window

In the late 18th century the Japanese artist Genki Komai (1747-1797), the most distinguished disciple of painter Okyo Maruyama (1733-1795), was living and working in Kyoto. His works were particularly noted for their realistic techniques and ‘skillful colouring’, and several examples can be found in major public institutions. An important work, displaying life in Kyoto in the late 1700s, is in the collection of the Met Museum in New York

Scenes of the Four Seasons in Kyoto, 1778

Above is a ‘snapshot’ from this scroll which measures 32.5 x 507.8cm. The bucolic western environs of Kyoto are depicted in the opening spring scene of the scroll. Drawing on traditional themes of famous scenic spots and seasonal activities, Genki gives us a sense of the ordinary citizens of Kyoto performing everyday activities as well as placing emphasis on the landscape setting. The work can be seen at: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/64872

There is also a work by Genki in the NGV collection – ‘Beauty by a round window’. This pigment and ink on silk painting dates from the late 18th century and depicts a young courtesan gazing (pensively?, knowingly?, seductively?) out into the ‘world of ukiyo‘ of which she is part.

Today’s post looks at the hairstyles of the ‘Floating World’ and how they were created. It comes to us from the Art Institute Chicago. The ‘Floating World’ (ukiyo), was all about glamour, sophistication, and style. The fashions worn reflected not only class and occupation but also trends and individual taste, all of which were focused on the attempt to create an ideal picture of beauty. The overall look of each individual bijin (beauty) was created by the combination of cosmetics, clothing, and hairstyle which is then captured in ukiyo-e paintings.

In the video, we watch as 90-year-old Minami Tomiko creates a series of the era’s intricate hairstyles, which are then presented alongside artworks with similar hairstyles in the collection of the Art Institute Chicago.  Minami is one of the few remaining yūsoku hairstylists. Her grandmother opened a hair salon in Kyoto during the Meiji era (1868–1912), and there styled everyone from upper-class ladies to young dancers. Miami trained under her own mother for 30 years. Set only to music, the video is a hypnotizing glimpse of the past living in the present, in which we can better understand how fashion, cosmetics, theater, and art all interlocked to create the dazzling beauty of Japan’s ‘Floating World’.  

It does remind us that the 30 minute timeframe for attending hairdressers was never a realistic option!